Goodbye to Corsica and we depart Ajaccio to sail to Stintino. The top of Sardegna on the West Coast. Amazingly clear blue water here and it’s a favourite with boats. We anchor in between the mainland of Sardegna and Asinara – a small island that is a Nature and Marine Reserve. Inhabited by white donkeys, it seems that the Island has become a popular tourist attraction judging by the amount of people trekking over there. It’s also famous for being the place where Falcone and Borsellino and their families were kept safe while the Mafia trials were proceeding. Huge lengths were gone to as to ensure their safety and privacy and sadly, in the end, both men and their wives were murdered. But it seems that it was the end of these violent murders – that was 2002. Incredible really, as both men would have realised that this would be their last assignment – that there was very little chance of a life after the trial.
We stopped in Alghero for a night. A Catalan town, small city – it’s also very interesting and around it fantastic harbours and clear water.
The next day there is zero wind and it’s quite nice to enjoy getting close to a coastline that often is pounded by weather. From Oristano down the coast is one huge dune. It starts with golden sands and by the time we get to the southern tip it is white. This side of Sardegna is very quiet compared to the busyness of Olbia and the Maddalenas. It is a coastline best explored by car or camper van as there are so many incredible coves and archeological sites – if you are into that. And you get to see the Rocks.
The rocks are amazing. Masua which is a giant standing stone and in the cliff opposite Porto Flavia – a reminder of the mining days. The detritus from the mining industry is apparent and you can see why. This place is abundant in minerals.
Next stop Carloforte on Isola San Pietro. The weather is looking unstable with high winds forecast. This is not unusual for this area but at 35 kn it is more than we want to deal with. We were hoping to get to Tunisia but it seems that our weather window is keeping us here and making it unlikely that we will get there this time. We will head to Favignana instead. One of the Egadi Islands, it lies 8km off the west coast of Sicily. Ferries come from Trapani on the hour and it is a very accessible island.
We have a night crossing to do. 180 nm means about 26 hours of transit. We like to arrive in daylight hours so we will head off around 9am and do the day and the night and be there the next morning. The bad weather has meant that the sea is very lumpy so it is also 26 hours of continual motion. I had cooked some food for dinner but it is too lumpy to consider eating anything substantial. More from the point of trying to prepare food in the galley. So grissini it is and lots of water. By 10 pm we share 2 hour shifts. We put the harness lines on the deck which run from forward to aft and we both wear lifejackets and are clipped to the harness line.No getting out of the cockpit, always stay clipped on. This is the only way that we can relax and get sleep. Darkness from 10pm until first light at 4.30am and by 5.30am we can see Marittemo – the largest of the Egadi Islands. It’s been an uneventful night with only 2 cruise ships going by.
Favignana has been a favourite for a while now. As we grew up in Perth, going to Rottnest Island was mandatory for summer and spring holidays – almost all the holidays. Favignana reminds us so much of Rottnest. Hire a bike – electric these days – and head off and explore the myriad of bays. Such clear water and you clamber down – try to find a pozzie on the seagrass mattress that covers the rocks. It’s up close and personal here but that is part of the fun. It is possible to go further and find seclusion and of course there is always a food truck with everything you need. You will never starve in Sicily!
A few days here and now we are going to Castellammare del Golfo – north of Trapani – we plan to head inland for a couple of days to see an Installation – Cretto di Burri.
The Cretto – the installation – is the work of the artist Burri. On the site of Gibellina which was devastated by earthquake in 1968 – many people died – and the whole town ruined. Burri’s idea was to recreate the layout of the town using the rubble and pouring white concrete. The result is extraordinary. Over 30 years to construct – it is a powerful place.
We chose to stay in Santa Ninfa which is quite close to the Cretto – a Feuda – a large farmhouse where they grow grapes and olives and are situated in a Nature Reserve of Santa Ninfa. The Feuda di Biviere was a lovely side step to the water and we felt we got to see another side of Sicily. As Vito – our jeep driver said – the ‘real’ Sicily.
Also part of this area is Segesta – an intact Greek temple and for Terme lovers – lots of hot mineral water around here. It is worth getting out the main tourist areas when you come to Sicily. The people are so welcoming and generous and want for you to know their home.
Next stop Palermo……
janeandrogersadventure 
captivating and informative as ever Jane. Sicily Sardenga and/or Corsica are on our radar actually. Very helpful when you suggest ‘getting around on dry land’ options too. Gloria x
Very happy to share more info with you Gloria. They are both amazing islands. Xx