From Gaeta it is a 1 and a half hour drive up to Picinisco. We go through Cassino which has significant history from WWII as it was annihilated by the Americans who thought the Germans were hiding out there. The worst of it was that the Benedictine Abbey at Monte Cassino was completely destroyed – unnecessarily.
Some type of religious building has existed on the site going back to the 5th century BC. All these memorials have suffered destruction of one kind or another as the different groups moved through. It was the first hospital around 530AD and still is a centre for medical research and a wide range of curative products are made here . The Abbey at Monte Cassino has now been completely rebuilt exactly as it was with the notable entrance PAX left untouched in the bombings. White doves now fly around the courtyards as a symbol of peace.
A beautiful and serene place high on the mountain. Before the bombings took place the monks had made plans to move all the precious books, art etc to Rome for safekeeping. These are now all returned to the abbey and are on view in a museum on site. We visited on an auspicious day – the Festa of Saint Benedict and were treated to all the dignitaries and brass band. Lots of pomp and ceremony.
Christopher has flown into Rome from Stanstead and has driven to Cassino to meet us. Now we will drive up into the mountains to Picinisco. We are staying at Villa Inglese – run by an English couple who live here full-time – the Villa was built by locals in the early 1900’s. They moved to Newcastle on Tyne and created Marc Antonio Gelati shops that still operate today. This is a familiar story for Picinisco. Particularly in the later 1800’s there was a mass defection of younger men who travelled to the UK and took with them their crafts of gelati, patisserie, music, stonemasonry and so on.
I Ciacca Winery is owned and operated by Cesidio and Selina Di Ciacca. Their history also goes back at least to the 1500’s and the Winery which grows Maturano grapes back to Roman times. Cesidio and Selina have now restored the vines and buildings and with their extended family have come back from Edinburgh to live full time in Picinsco – which sits just above I Ciacca.
Cesidio is also a walking encyclopedia on the history of this area and is very generous with his time and he can fill in many parts of the story for us. For Christopher and I and the rest of our families it is a chance to understand our fathers heritage and to enjoy the uniqueness of this place. It is as if this is the centre of the Universe for us. We have 4 days here and then we head back to Gaeta. Time to get back on board Marley and make our way towards Rome. Ponza first!
Ponza and Palmarola are busy with boats on the water and people on land. The summer holidays are kicking in and most of the voices we hear are English. Italy has a couple more weeks until the start of August when things really get crazy. For boaters it is possible to come from the Italian coastline very easily and ferries come continually from the mainland. Lots of beaches to choose from and a village filled with cafès and restaurants. Palmarola is a little more removed – you need a boat to get here or come by ferry boat for the day. But the weather is great and letting us anchor in along the incredible edge. Limestone cliffs so this means the water is a clear acqua green. And quite shallow – only 4 meters which is easy.
Last days now on Marley and we will head up to the Blue Dolphin in The Tiber. Time to pack up and clean up, squeeze everything into our suitcases and head towards Switzerland. The weather is heating up on the mainland as you would expect in July. We are looking forward to some cooling down – and the forecast in Switzerland is 14 degrees. Quite a change.
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